Love this place, I love all of Alaska. The bugs are thick everywhere you go here. You are in the wilderness, and few people live here, so yes, mosquitoes are horrendous, but it's still lovely, and you get used to them. Thermacel will keep u bug free. They work fantastic. I set 4 of them up at the corners of my campsite, and we have nearly zero bugs.
When I'm on the trail or bushwhacking bug, dope is your only hope and head net or jacket.
I've lived here now, 9 winters, and every year gets better as my knowledge grows. You make of it what you will. The more remote you get, the worse the bugs and all the fabulous encounters with the wildlife you have. We've been visited by grizzly, blackness, moose, caribou, Musk ox, wolverine, wolves, and every other neighbor from the woods. I came here specifically for winters and wildlife and, of course, the never-ending beauty you find around every turn.